IMDB Link: “Who Pays the Ferryman?” Some Talk of Alexander (TV Episode 1977) – IMDb
Synopsis: A British ex-Serviceman, Hebden, comes to Elounda to rekindle old memories of the war, but news of his arrival prompts a villager to seek revenge.
The episode begins with Hebden re-enacting an attack on a “Jerry” half track. “Jerry” is an old British term for a German in World War II. Example photo of a half track (armoured personnel carrier) below is by Bundesarchiv Bild. The term “half track” obviously refers to half the undercarriage of the vehicle being a track, like a tank, for greater traction over poor quality surfaces you get on battlefields.
This location is just off Motorway 90 north-west of Limnes.
The cutting above Dimitrios can be seen in the 1st screenshot on the very left. The road going through it is the motorway.
They then drive to Elounda, where his group’s headquarters were.
Haldane and Nikos have a discussion with Andreas Hadjieleftheris, regarding the purchase of his kaiki. Andreas asks Nikos to ask Haldane whether he was Leandros, who fought with the Eagle (Babis) during the war. Haldane confirms this.
This was not filmed outside the taverna, as you might believe. This was actually filmed on the road north of Elounda town. There are 2 clues to this, the main one being that this location was used during the Christening sequence of the boat, and the additional shots of that sequence, and the background, are the same. The second is that, thankfully due to the production keeping things mainly geographically in order, Hebden’s car passes behind Haldane on its way into Elounda, so they must be to the north of the town as the coast is on their left.
If you rotate the Google Maps view around you will see the pier which is visible behind the kaiki. The angled rock formations behind the actors are the giveaway here, as well as the additional clues in other scenes, especially the Despina Taverna on the corner.
The next scene where they’re sat down with Nikos and Elena is at the rear of the Taverna Vassilakis (Ferryman Taverna). In the background to the side of the taverna seating area, you see a different boat to the one that was discussed in the earlier scene. This boat will appear in many scenes filmed around the taverna.
Haldane reluctantly accepts Andreas’ offer of the kaiki for free, in payment for all he did for the Andartes during the war.
Haldane is staying at Babis’ apartment in Elounda. This is conveniently located in the alleyway beside the taverna. This is also where Babis parks his maroon BMW across the alleyway on the main road at the top of the stairs.
Babis and Haldane discuss Haldane’s plans to stay in Elounda to be near Elena.
Hebden is discussing his exploits in the war at a cafe whilst Jo browses a souvenir shop.
Thanks to some residents on Facebook, I was pointed towards Malia as a potential location, which fits the storyline as Malia is mentioned by Hebden as being a place where his group saw action in the war.
The main road that runs through Malia, the old Heraklion to Agios Nikolaos road, has a location that certainly seems to fit the attributes of the photos above. If you consider the first photo above, of Hebden sat down with the other gentlemen, this shot is across the main road. To Hebden’s right is a side road that goes off at an angle. The long shot just above this paragraph is up the main road and a mountain range is visible behind with a big white distinctive building across the road. This is all visible and broadly matching in the Street Views below. The angle of the building behind Hebden also matches, being a strange ‘wedge’ shape.
Incidentally, in the screenshot below, the man on the very left, who realises that Hebden was one of the British who fought with the Andartes of Vraskas, is Petros Raptis, who was the Greek location manager for the series.
Annika takes the opportunity to visit Haldane whilst Matheos delivers olive oil to the restaurant.
Haldane is measuring up the kaiki and taking notes. This is the same location as above. The Despina Taverna is visible in the distance. The stone wall (marked) is a feature that is still there next to the Taverna. The road is visible above the boat.
In the below Google Maps image, i’ve tried to get in the same incline and Taverna, as well as the pier across the street.
Whilst Haldane is jotting down notes, we see the FIAT that Hebden is travelling in pass behind him on his way into Elounda.
When they stop and Hebden says ‘Elounda’ this static shot of the town is taken from across the harbour.
If we try to place the camera position, where the church faces slightly to the right, and the Kalypso Hotel faces slightly to the left, the below is what I came up with. I’m not sure whether the pier was fully built or just how much of what the Vritomartes restaurant sits on originally existed in 1977, but I’ve come up with an approximate location for the shot. It could well have been taken from the seafront behind it instead (where the boats are parked to the right of where the red arrows converge), but my money’s on the pier leading to the Vritomartes restaurant.
The building to the right of the church is the Kalypso Hotel and has been a feature of the town for decades.
Hebden and Jo check in to the pension which is above the taverna.
Annika visits her mother, where she tries to persuade Annika to end this relationship with Haldane. The exterior of the house is the Kremasta Monastery in Vryses, detailed in Episode 1.
In the evening the Hebdens, Annika and Haldane have a drink at the taverna bar (where Annika orders a Cinzano with lemon and ice in Greek), then dine at the restaurant. We know this location because of the background Egyptian-style fresco on the wall, and the green / orange checked tablecloths. When they are stood next to the bar, the big curtain behind Hebden is also visible.
These were also seen in episode 1 when Haldane first meets Elena, so we know they are in the taverna (and not the studio set).
When Jo is confronted by Dimitrios they tussle at the bottom of the steps that run alongside the Taverna and up to Haldane’s apartment.
The circle is where the tussle occurs, and the arrows show the camera view up the steps.
The subsequent discussion with Annika appears to be beside the taverna, as Jo then walks around to where her father is. Haldane bids them a good evening and leaves.
Pavlos Makridakis leaves his house to make his way to Elounda. He is supposed to have left from Vraskas, however I have checked the Vraskas and Sfakia villages but not much seems to tally. It’s difficult as obviously Google Street View does not cover the minor roads around the smallest villages. Logically speaking however, you wouldn’t get a donkey to walk too far – you’d look to shoot these scenes close to Elounda as there’s enough varying landscape around to make it look as though Makridakis has ridden from afar.
It’s still a monumental effort by the donkey though. Covering nearly 200km in 3 days (as Major Krasakis says, “arrives the day after tomorrow”) whilst carrying 2 people and supplies! It ends up being a wasted journey as we will eventually see, and the poor thing has to walk a further 200km to get home!
Major Krasakis goes to see Haldane to ask him to warn Hebden about Makridakis’ journey and its’ intended purpose.
Makridakis continues his journey.
The subsequent discussion between the Hebdens and Haldane is to the rear of the taverna. We see the old boat behind Haldane which is to the rear and the side of the taverna on the shore.
Hebden goes to buy a paper.
The expanse of land behind him is Elounda Square, where Evagelia’s is now. The stall is long gone though.
He takes a look around to find people staring at him.
This location is barely recognisable, the main clues to help find this were the rooflines and balconies of the far buildings. It looks as though the Gas cylinder delivery driver is stopped outside what is Alyggos now (the building to his right in the screenshot above).
We also see the old boat when Jo is writing postcards afterward. The scene with Dimitrios also places this at the bottom of the steps, where their previous encounter occurred.
And a photo of this location from more recent times:
Upstairs a worried Hebden is taking his clothes off the washing line, and is preparing to pack his luggage. This scene is on the upper floor of the taverna (I would love to know if it was indeed a pension back in those days). We can place this scene because of the same boat at ground level below (in the rectangle).
The next shot is of a sunset, which was also used in episode 1. Looking around Elounda Bay, you’d think this was Spinalonga with Kalydon next to it, but the shape is wrong. If we consider that the cast and crew were staying in Agios Nikolaos, then we can also look there, as that area may have been used for inserts or other locations. With this in mind, you will see the location below just off the eastern edge of Ayios Nikolaos. This is Agioi Pantes with Mikronisi the small island off its’ northern tip. The small building on the small island is Mikronisi Lighthouse.
This Street View is from the sea front. Go back a few streets and to the upper floor of a hotel and you have the same general elevation.
Makridakis continues his journey.
Matheos visits Annika at her house to tell her that someone from Sfakia is coming to kill an Englishman who was with the Andartes during the war. Looks like it rained heavily that day.
Major Krasakis leaves his office to go into town to handle any problems.
The following long shot of Elounda is from the north-west. The village in the foreground is Pano Elounda (or “Upper” Elounda).
Annika obviously thinks Haldane is at risk, so rushes to go and see him.
The next scene with Hebden is strangely shot however. In the first scene when Hebden is lighting his cigar, they’re sitting at the tables at the taverna and Jo has her back to the taverna. You can tell this because of the table covers.
In the next shot of Jo you see the church in the background and they’re sat in a restaurant beside Elounda Square, which what would now be Megaro restaurant, which is the first one on that strip.
The trees give away the location here, as well as the proximity of the church tower in the background.
The following image also shows where the scenes were shot. Some were at the Taverna Vassilakis, some at what is now Megaro. From Megaro, the churchtower and Elounda Square are visible in the background, but not from the Taverna Vassilakis.
Makridakis plods on…
In the next scene, Nikos approaches Hebden and tells him it’s time to confront Makridakis.
The windows behind the Hebdens appear to the the same as the ones at the Megaro restaurant nowadays.
In the subsequent shot of Nikos leaning on the table however, the Hebdens are sat in front of the Taverna Vassilakis.
So this sequence is a bit of a mess, filmed in 2 separate places.
The Hebdens walk across Elounda Square along with a gaggle of onlookers.
Onlookers gather around the church. This was taken at the front of the church against the railing – the man in blue is in the same double-shot sequence so we know this is the same location.
From looking at this scene more closely, there is a building next door to the church, that the people are stood in front of. The only building that is next door to the church where the church is on its’ right is the Kalypso Hotel. Since then, another building has been erected between them (possibly an extension to the hotel), which has probably necessitated the removal of the railing seen in the photos below.
This older agefotostock photo shows the gate in question, along with the Kalypso Hotel visible next door before the building in between was built.
Makridakis is moments away from Elounda town.
I found this image of a postcard on an Elounda Facebook group. It certainly looks like the same tree, with wall in front of it as per the screenshot above. If it is, then it’s definitely been removed due to redevelopment.
As you can see, the Porfyra Accessories shop now stands where the tree was.
Hebden approaches the church, with the Police nearby in case Makridakis tries to kill Hebden.
Makridakis approaches Elounda. I’ve tried to locate this large tree, however it looks like it’s been removed now due to redevelopment. This looks like it’s just on the outskirts of Schisma (the main Elounda town).
The onlookers gather. This is the same camera position as when Hebden approaches the church, above.
In episode 7, we see this railing when Haldane and Alexi drive past the church. The gate was near the front end of the church, and the railing followed the outside wall from the side of the church to the bell tower.
Hebden crosses the road to buy more cigars.
Then sits down, now visibly worried about his possible impending demise.
Jo looks around and is worried for her father now. The locals appear deadly serious about this whole situation.
Makridakis and his wife arrive at the Church opposite. This is of course the main church in Elounda, Agios Konstantinos and Agia Eleni, and is directly opposite where Hebden is sat.
The post behind Dimitrios in the screenshot below is a support for the building behind. These have largely been boxed off since 1977.
Jo urges her father to confront Makridakis.
Makridakis manouvres himself outside the church, and waits for Hebden.
Hebden finally plucks up the courage to speak to Makridakis. He breaks down and admits he was injured the whole time and couldn’t do anything. One of his colleagues gave up the local Andartes.
The bystanders look on.
Hebden tells the truth about his war story – being wounded in Malia and being a liability to his group.
Makridakis takes pity on him, turns around and sets off to return home. The building to his left is clearly identifiable in the Google Street View below.
Hebden admits the lie to Jo.
The archway to the right of Hebden’s head is just visible on the building opposite the church.
Nikos and Elena turn away and head back to the taverna.
Note the windows in the red rectangle above. They match with the building in the distance in the below shot. The building next to Nikos’ head with the green columns and balcony is where Fresco eatery is now.
Jo Hebden realises that her father’s war story was a lie and that she doesn’t need to adhere to such high standards of behaviour any more, and goes off with Dimitrios.
Major Krasakis takes Hebden away in his Land Rover beside the church steps.
The closing credits see Makridakis riding the poor donkey home.
Credits
| Alan Haldane | Jack Hedley |
| Annika Zeferis | Betty Arvaniti |
| Matheos Noukakis | Takis Emmanuel |
| Katerina Matakis | Patience Collier |
| William Hebden | Jack Watson |
| Jo Hebden | Lalla Ward |
| Babis Spiridakis | Neil McCarthy |
| The Major | Stefan Gryff |
| Elena Vassilakis | Maria Sokali |
| Nikos Vassilakis | Nikos Verlekis |
| Dimitrios | Costas Passalis |
| Andreas Hagieleftheris | Ioannis Himonidis |
| Production Assistants | Andrew Morgan |
| Michael McDermott | |
| Production Unit Managers | Colin Dudley |
| Petros Raptis | |
| Costume Designer | Tudor George |
| Make Up Artist | Gwen Arthy |
| Studio Lighting | Barry Hill |
| Studio Sound | Ramon Bailey |
| Film Cameraman | Max Samett |
| Film Recordist | Arthur Chesterman |
| Film Editor | Bill Shapter |
| Composer | Yannis Markopoulos |
| Series Creator | Michael J. Bird |
| Designer | Myles Lang |
| Producer | William Slater |
Who Pays The Ferryman? Locations Page 