Episode 2 – “Some Talk of Alexander”

IMDB Link: “Who Pays the Ferryman?” Some Talk of Alexander (TV Episode 1977) – IMDb

Title caption

Synopsis: A British ex-Serviceman, Hebden, comes to Elounda to rekindle old memories of the war, but news of his arrival prompts a villager to seek revenge.


The episode begins with Hebden re-enacting an attack on a “Jerry” half track. “Jerry” is an old British term for a German in World War II. Example photo of a half track (armoured personnel carrier) below is by Bundesarchiv Bild. The term “half track” obviously refers to half the undercarriage of the vehicle is a track, like a tank, for greater traction over poor quality surfaces you get on battlefields.

An example German WWII half track

This location is just off Motorway 90 north-west of Limnes.

“Open Fire! Tututututututututu!”

The cutting above Dimitrios can be seen in the 1st screenshot on the very left. The road going through it is the motorway.

They then drive to Elounda, where his group’s headquarters were.


The scene cuts to a discussion between Haldane and Andreas Hadjieleftheris, regarding the purchase of the kaiki.

“This man is the Englishman who I spoke to you about before, who is interested in buying your old kaiki”, says Nikos to Andreas

This was not filmed outside the taverna, as you might believe. This was actually filmed on the road north of Elounda town. There are 2 clues to this, the main one being that this location was used during the Christening sequence of the boat, and the additional shots of that sequence, and the background, are the same. The second is that, thankfully due to the production keeping things mainly geographically in order, Hebden’s car passes behind Haldane on its way into Elounda, so they must be to the north of the town as the coast is on their left.

If you rotate the Google Maps view around you will see the pier which is visible behind the kaiki. The angled rock formations behind the actors are the giveaway here, as well as the additional clues in other scenes, especially the Despina Taverna on the corner.

The next scene where they’re sat down with Nikos and Elena is at the rear of the Taverna Vassilakis (Ferryman Taverna). In the background to the side of the taverna seating area, you see a different boat to the one that was discussed in the earlier scene.

Haldane accepts Andreas’ offer of the kaiki for free, as he was Leandros who fought with the Andartes during the war.

Haldane is staying at Babis’ apartment in Elounda. This is conveniently located in the alleyway beside the taverna.

In the screenshot above, this is also where Babis parks his maroon BMW across the alleyway.

Babis and Haldane discuss Haldane’s plans to stay in Elounda to be near Elena.

Hebden is discussing his exploits in the war at a cafe whist Jo browses a souvenir shop.

The reflection of the building in the glass behind could be a clue as to this location

Incidentally, the man on the very left, who realises that Hebden was one of the British who fought with the Andartes of Vraskas, is Petros Raptis, who was the Greek location manager for the series.

Annika takes the opportunity to visit Haldane whilst Matheos delivers olive oil to the restaurant.

Haldane is measuring up the kaiki and taking notes. This is the same location as above. The Despina Taverna is visible in the distance. The stone wall (marked) is a feature that is still there next to the Taverna. The road is visible above the boat.

In the below Google Maps image, i’ve tried to get in the same incline and Taverna, as well as the pier across the street.

Whilst Haldane is jotting down notes, we see the FIAT that Hebden is travelling in pass behind him on his way into Elounda.

When they stop and Hebden says ‘Elounda’ this static shot of the town is taken from across the harbour.

If we try to place the camera position, where the church faces slightly to the right, and the Kalypso Hotel faces slightly to the left, the below is what I came up with. I’m not sure whether the pier was fully built or just how much of what the Vritomartes restaurant sits on originally existed in 1977, but I’ve come up with an approximate location for the shot. It could well have been taken from the ‘schisma’ (the seafront) behind it instead (where the boats are parked to the right of where the red arrows converge.

The building to the right of the church is the Kalypso Hotel and has been a feature of the town for decades.

Hebden and Jo check in to the pension which is above the taverna.

Annika visits her mother, where she tries to persuade Annika to end this relationship with Haldane. The exterior of the house is the Kremasta Monastery in Vryses, detailed in Episode 1.

In the evening the Hebdens, Annika and Haldane have a drink at the taverna bar (where Annika orders a Cinzano with lemon and ice in Greek), then dine at the restaurant. We know this location because of the background Egyptian-style fresco on the wall, and the green / orange checked tablecloths. When they are stood next to the bar, the big curtain behind Hebden is also visible.

These were also seen in episode 1 when Haldane first meets Elena, so we know they are in the taverna (and not the studio set).

When Jo is confronted by Dimitrios they tussle at the bottom of the steps that run alongside the Taverna and up to Haldane’s apartment.

The circle is where the tussle occurs, and the arrows shows the camera view up the steps.

The subsequent discussion with Annika appears to be beside the taverna, as Jo then walks around to where her father is. Haldane bids them a good evening and leaves.


Pavlos Makridakis leaves his house to make his way to Elounda. He is supposed to have left from Vraskas. I have checked the Vraskas and Sfakia villages but not much seems to tally. It’s difficult as obviously Google Street View does not cover the minor roads around the smallest villages. Logically speaking however, you wouldn’t get a donkey to walk too far – you’d look to shoot these scenes close to Elounda as there’s enough varying landscape around to make it look as though Makridakis has ridden from afar.

It’s still a monumental effort by the donkey though. Covering nearly 200km in 3 days (as Major Krasakis says, “arrives the day after tomorrow”) whilst carrying 2 people and supplies! It ends up being a wasted journey as we will eventually see, and the poor thing has to walk a further 200km to get home!

Major Krasakis goes to see Haldane to ask him to warn Hebden about Makridakis’ journey and its’ intended purpose.

Makridakis continues his journey.

The subsequent discussion between the Hebdens and Haldane is to the rear of the taverna. We see the old boat behind Haldane which is to the rear and the side of the taverna on the shore.

Hebden goes to buy a paper.

The expanse of land behind him is most probably Elounda Square, where Evagelia’s is now. The stall is long gone though.

He takes a look around to find people staring at him:

We also see the old boat when Jo is writing postcards afterward. The scene with Dimitrios also places this at the bottom of the steps, where their previous encounter occurred.

Upstairs a worried Hebden is taking his clothes off the washing line, and is preparing to pack his luggage. This scene is on the upper floor of the taverna (I would love to know if it was indeed a pension back in those days or whether it was the restaurant owner’s accommodation). We can place this scene because of the same boat at ground level below (in the rectangle).


The next shot is of a sunset. Looking around Elounda Bay, you’d think this was Spinalonga with Kalydon next to it, but the shape looks wrong. If we consider that the cast and crew were staying in Agios Nikolaos, then we can also look there, as that may have also been used for inserts or other locations. With this in mind, you will see the location below just off the eastern edge of Ayios Nikolaos. This is Agioi Pantes with Mikronisi the small island off its’ northern tip. The small building on the small island is Mikronisi Lighthouse.

This Street View is from the sea front. Go back a few streets and to the upper floor of a hotel and you have the same general elevation.

Makridakis continues his journey.

Matheos visits Annika at her house to tell her that someone from Sfakia is coming to kill an Englishman who was with the Andartes during the war. Looks like it rained heavily that day.

Major Krasakis leaves his office to go into town to handle any problems.

The following long shot of Elounda is from the north-west. The village in the foreground is Pano Elounda (or “Upper” Elounda).

Annika obviously thinks Haldane is at risk, so rushes to go and see him.

The next scene with Hebden is strangely shot however. In the first scene when Hebden is lighting his cigar, they’re sitting at the tables at the taverna and Jo has her back to the taverna. You can tell this because of the table covers.

In the next shot of Jo you see the church in the background and they’re sat in a restaurant beside Elounda Square, which what would now be Megaro restaurant, which is the first one on that strip.

The trees give away the location here, as well as the proximity of the church tower in the background.

The following image also shows where the scenes were shot. Some were at the Taverna Vassilakis, some at what is now Megaro. From Megaro, the churchtower and Elounda Square are visible in the background, but not from the Taverna Vassilakis.

Makridakis plods on…

In the next scene, Nikos approaches Hebden and tells him it’s time to confront Makridakis.

The windows behind the Hebdens appear to the the same as the ones at the Megaro restaurant nowadays.

In the subsequent shot of Nikos leaning on the table however, the Hebdens are sat in front of the Taverna Vassilakis.

So this sequence is a bit of a mess, filmed in 2 separate places.

The Hebdens walk across Elounda Square along with a gaggle of onlookers.

Makridakis approaches Elounda.

Hebden approaches the church…

…and so does Makridakis.

The onlookers gather. This is the same camera position as when Hebden approaches the church, above.

In episode 7, we see this railing when Haldane and Alexi drive past the church. The gate was near the front end of the church, and the railing followed the outside wall from the side of the church to the bell tower.

Scene from episode 7 showing railing

Hebden crosses the road to buy more cigars. Note the pole behind Dimitrios:

And confronts Makridakis outside the church, then subsequently folds like wet cardboard:

Nikos and Elena turn away and head back to the taverna.

Note the windows in the red rectangle above. They match with the building in the distance in the below shot. The building next to Nikos’ head with the green columns and balcony is where Fresco eatery is now.

Jo Hebden realises that her father’s war story was a lie and that she doesn’t need to adhere to such high standards of behaviour any more, and goes off with Dimitrios.

Major Krasakis takes Hebden away in his Land Rover beside the church steps.

The closing credits see Makridakis riding the poor donkey home.

Credits

Alan HaldaneJack Hedley
Annika ZeferisBetty Arvaniti
Matheos NoukakisTakis Emmanuel
Katerina MatakisPatience Collier
William HebdenJack Watson
Jo HebdenLalla Ward
Babis SpiridakisNeil McCarthy
The MajorStefan Gryff
Elena VassilakisMaria Sokali
Nikos VassilakisNikos Verlekis
DimitriosCostas Passalis
Andreas HagieleftherisIoannis Himonidis
Production AssistantsAndrew Morgan
Michael McDermott
Production Unit ManagersColin Dudley
Petros Raptis
Costume DesignerTudor George
Make Up ArtistGwen Arthy
Studio LightingBarry Hill
Studio SoundRamon Bailey
Film CameramanMax Samett
Film RecordistArthur Chesterman
Film EditorBill Shapter
ComposerYannis Markopoulos
Series CreatorMichael J. Bird
DesignerMyles Lang
ProducerWilliam Slater
(c) BBC Birmingham 1977